See Canary's in urban jungle

THE development of London's Docklands has been taking place over the last 20 years and is still proceeding at a furious pace.

This walk will be particularly interesting for those of you who are completely unfamiliar with the area and will, I hope, be the first of several I produce in the future.

The walk features what are probably the best known landmarks of the area, St Katherine Dock and Canary Wharf, but you will also have plenty of chances to admire the way that old warehouses have been converted to supply office space and luxury living accommodation.

Everywhere reminders of the Docklands' former life remain from preserved cranes to street names. Many old buildings have been retained.

However, the effect of market forces is just as evident here as elsewhere. In 1992, Tobacco Dock Shopping Precinct was described as "one of the most exciting developments in the world".

It was built in 1814 to store tobacco, brandy, rum and sherry and is one of the best preserved examples of 19th century engineering and architecture there is a massive use of cast iron, huge timber roof trusses and best of all, beautiful bricklined vaults.

Entering this area between two replica pirate ships will be one of the high points of the walk. But what you won't find are many shops. The place is deserted.

The security guard told me: "At first it was a great success but they really had the wrong kind of shops for the area and when Canary Wharf opened it really knocked the life out of it and the owners have yet to decide what they are going to do with it.''

When you walk through you will realise why it is still in such demand for publicity events premieres of Harry Potter and Moulin Rouge were held here.

About half of the walk is on a section of the Thames Path this is a long distance path which runs from the source of the Thames near Kemble to the Thames Barrier, a distance of 180 miles.

Originally the warehouses were built to the edge of the river and there were few continuous walkways.

New developments tend to include public access to the riverside so the path changes from time to time.

There are clear signposts for this part of the route this is why l haven't included a map for this section.

1. Start Walk from Tower Gateway Tube Station hugging the L side of the road parallel to the approach to Tower Bridge. Just before reaching the river-front turn L under the entrance arch to St Katherine Dock. Go ahead along the walkway to walk to L of the Dickens Inn and emerge to walk L in a brick paved area with cottages on L and garages on R. Follow the walk to L then turn R up Mews Street and R in main road then R down Thomas More Street,

2. 1 mile/1.6km Turn L in front Riviera Court and L again between gateposts to walk with the remains of the Hermitage Basin on your L. At the end of this pond turn L then R to go down under a road to walk with a canal on your R (signposted to Shadwell Basin). At the junction of waterways turn L and swing to the R with the canal in front of an all-glass building (News International). Climb the steps between the two replica ships on L and go forward through the deserted vaults of Tobacco Dock shopping centre. With a church in front, turn R then R again to walk down Wapping Lane with Tobacco Dock now on your R. (Notice up at roof level a boar's head with barrels above at the end of the Tobacco Dock building.)

Turn R along Chandler Street then L down Meeting House Alley. Cross a road and go ahead past Beechy House, cross another road and up some steps into a small park and turn L at the third road in front of the Metropolitan Police Marine Support building and a little later, the Captain Kidd pub followed by Wapping Underground Station.

3. 2.4 miles/3.8km After about 35m follow a Thames Path sign on R which takes you up a sloping ramp, through a gate and along the front of apartments to another gate onto St Hilda's Wharf (don't be put off by these gates they are put there to stop people prowling after dark). From now on we will be following the Thames Path. Now you have to return to the road, swinging R along Wapping Wall. Just after the Prospect of Whitby pub turn R to return to the river edge going alongside the entry to Shadwell Basin and across the red lift bridge, turning R beside a playground to enter the King Edward Memorial Park and on past a circular ventilation shaft for the Rotherhithe Tunnel.

A walk along a splendid river front with superb views (and sightings of cormorants) comes to an end when you are forced off around offices into Narrow Street. Again, follow the Thames Path sign to pass R between buildings and walk round the Barley Mow pub, up the steps and over the bridge of the Limehouse Marina and down steps to return to the riverfront and then loop again to the road to pass the Grapes pub.

4. 3.3 miles/2km. Soon after Booty's pub go R onto Duke Shore Wharf and cross another inlet. Just before the jetty of Canary Wharf and a large Chinese restaurant turn L up steps and continue ahead across roads and ornamental gardens to go up West India Avenue towards Canary Wharf Tower. At the end of the Avenue go up steps into Cabot Square, cross a road to enter the ground floor of the Tower. Go ahead to the escalators, up to the next floor and straight ahead into Canary Wharf Dockland Tube Station.

Walk Information

Starting point/parking: Tower Gateway Station of the Docklands Light Railway.

Distance: 4.6 miles/7.3km

Time: 3 hours

Terrain: pavements.

Refreshments: The riverside pubs in this area are world famous. The best are all encountered in stage three the Prospect of Whitby, the Crapes and Booty's. All are mentioned in the text. There are plenty of cafes along the route and a range of restaurants in and around Canary Wharf.

Public toilets: Tower bridge (about 100m), from the visitors' entrance; Westferry Circus on the final approach to Canary Wharf.

Public transport: The main walk runs between the two DLR stations of Tower Gateway and Canary Wharf (it's worth starting your trip from Stratford DLR to get a full impression of the Docklands Development).

If you wanted to shorten the walk you could catch a train at Wapping on the East London Line.

Map and grid reference: A large scale A-Z might be useful.

More information: West Essex Ramblers: memberships and free programme of walks with leaders: 020 8524 2737 (Redbridge Group: 01708 456 771).