"If God had not made Sherry, how imperfect his work would have been."

Benito Perez Galdos

Yes, I know, I haven't been too complimentary about any Sherry that isn't a sticky PX in the past but a recent tasting in London made me rethink that position, so here we are talking about Fino this week. Yes, I also remember referring to Fino as battery acid, cat's pee with a hint of lemon and as being only slightly better than a work colleague with chronic halitosis but even a lifelong sceptic like me can change their mind when faced with new beauty.

Alternatively, it could be that my taste buds are getting as old and cranky as my brain, but all of a sudden I love bone dry lemon flavours with hints of honey and acid. It sounds like an alternative to waterboarding but when the sun is out, the sherry is as cold as a penguin's bottom and there's a platter of seafood and salad, you really would struggle to find a better moment in time.

Sherry in general is experiencing a bit of a renaissance, but while I can now add the dry end to my love of the super rich end, I still say the stuff in the middle is just confused and oxidised fortified wine; good for trifles and supermarket hampers at Christmas!

For those of you who love a cocktail, the good news is that there are several good recipes using fino, including one that also uses my favourite food group, gin. The cocktail in question is the Midsummer Cup and what could sound more quintessentially British than that? The recipe in nice and simple with Gin, fino sherry, crushed pineapple or juice, lemon juice and a dash of bitters. Other tasty cocktails include the Comfort Zone, which includes vodka, and the Texas Cakewalk, featuring mezcal for its kick. Cocktails may be a bit of a tarty way to bring sherry back into your life but lets face it, there's something wonderfully eccentric about both of them isn't there, so why not?

Anyway, the motto of the column is to take a fresh look at fino sherry this summer because if an old crank like me can change his opinion, so can you!

Pip pip for another week

El Maestro Fino

A lovely dry and refreshing sherry with hints of nuts and lemon. Excellent with grilled langoustines or a refreshing crab salad.

Bottle Apostle £19.50

Pedros Almacenista Fino

A cracking blend of old wines with more youthful stock. Bone dry with really appealing flavours of almonds and fresh peeled apples and a crisp finish. Perfect with smoked ham, shellfish or spicy Indian dishes.

Majestic £9.99